The Epicurean After the Storm

With Ai Weiwei

     Last week was a hectic one at work, as apart from covering the flooding (see the previous post) ABC Beijing was working overtime to produce a segment for Nightline on Chinese artist and dissident Ai Weiwei. The piece aired last Friday in conjunction with the US premiere of "Ai Weiwei: Never Sorry", an award-winning documentary about his art and activism. (It's a really fascinating and well-made documentary--I recommend you see it if you have a chance!) The team met him at his home and studio in Beijing, and I got the chance to be a fly on the wall during his interview. For someone the Chinese government considers such a threat, he's very level and calm, up-in-arms in the most unassuming of ways. We got to see his studio, the list of names of the students who died in the Sichuan earthquake he compiled, and his many cats, including the one that opens doors. Afterward, we all took pictures with him, and he gave us painted sunflower seeds (from his famous exhibition in London's Tate Modern). Before I got my photo taken with Ai Weiwei, he stopped and fixed my smudged lipstick--after that I was especially starstruck. ("One of China's most prominent political dissidents fixed my makeup! Ahhh!")

Inside Ai Weiwei's courtyard

Ai Weiwei and Gloria in front of the list of the names of
the students who died in the Sichuan earthquake

Inside Ai Weiwei's personal gallery

Making the magic

     After I wrapped up writing an article on Chinese students using forged materials to get into foreign colleges Friday night, I left the office and met up for dinner with my friend Aaron, who was in Beijing with his family after his brother's wedding in China. Aaron is from Austin, plays with me in the MIT orchestra, and was the one who introduced me to swing dancing. After having Japanese food, we were ambling down the street when, out of nowhere, we heard the strains of country music. Sure that we were mistaken, we crossed the street to a Chinese bar, following the sound of the music to its source--none other than an authentic bluegrass band, complete with banjo, harmonica, and a drawling singer. So blown away by the improbability of these circumstances, we decided to take full advantage of the situation and did what anyone else would--go up in front of the stage and dance to the blues under the spotlight. While I'm sure we astounded the bar's employees, clientele, and even the band, I like to think we livened the place up a bit (one couple came up and joined us!). When the song finished, we got a hearty round of applause and a "Thanks to the dancers!" from the band, and so we bid everyone farewell and booked it out of there. 

     In anticipation of the opening ceremony for the Olympics, Sha, Tianzi, and Peter (a Beijinger who also went to our high school) went to karaoke, and so Aaron and I joined them after leaving the band. As someone who has spent an extended period of time in Japan, the birthplace of karaoke, one would think that I have a natural inclination for the pastime. I'll just come out and say, though, that as I traveled toward the karaoke place, I couldn't help thinking, "Why would you ever want to hear songs sung worse than their original performances?" My reservations and disdain quickly dissipated after I found that what we all lacked in vocal ability we made up for with enthusiasm (and to be fair, Peter, who was in the high school madrigals and now sings in his college's choir, is actually a wonderful singer). We had fun cutting loose, and cheering on each other's attempts to capture the subtleties of Stevie Wonder, Selena Gomez, "Last Christmas", Bruno Mars, Frank Sinatra, Jay Zhou, and this gem:

     I unexpectedly received critical acclaim for my rendition of Beyonce's "Single Ladies"; other highlights included Aaron's freeform interpretation of an eighties song that randomly showed up in the mix, and Sha's duet with himself, in which he demonstrated incredible vocal range singing both male and female vocals of a Chinese pop song.

With Tianzi

     We must have had fun after all, as we left karaoke at three in the morning and went straight to bed headed over to the apartment to watch the opening ceremony of the Olympics. (Unfortunately, London time doesn't line up very well with normal waking hours in Beijing.) While I wouldn't go so far as to say I was disappointed by the show, there's no doubt that the Beijing '08 opening ceremony set the bar extremely high (arguably too high for many, many reasons). While I thought that London's show was definitely more "human" and had fun and impressive elements (the James Bond and Mr. Bean sketches, the swing-dancing nurses, the torch design) I felt it lacked unity and fluidity. It seemed that the many individual aspects and people on display were scattered and at times distracted from the larger intent behind their performance--in other words, there was so much "stuff" going on that I was just confused a lot of the time. That said, it definitely had British flavor, just as the show in 2008 was decidedly Chinese.

Me, Tianzi, Sha, Peter
"We survived the Olympic opening ceremony"

     Anyway, we made it to the Parade of Nations (6 am) when everyone decided to "take a forty minute nap" and then get up for the lighting of the torch. As you can imagine, that didn't pan out as expected, and we ended up watching the replay when we all woke up later that afternoon (which in retrospect, would have been the obvious thing to do in the first place). Aaron, who was scheduled to meet his family at 7:30 that morning to hike the Great Wall had disappeared by the time we woke up. (We all agreed that two hours of sleep and then a polluted trek to the Great Wall was a recipe for disaster, but rumor has it that he's still alive.) Unfazed, Sha, Tianzi, Peter, and I went out for amazing Indian food for "lunch" (4 pm), and then parted ways. 

     The next day I went out with Wurihan for lunch and souvenir shopping. She and I get along so well for a long list of reasons, but our mutual love of good food is a not insignificant one. We have resolved to embark on a "food tour" of Beijing's best eats for the rest of my time here, so on Sunday we stuffed ourselves silly at a delicious Taiwanese restaurant, and spent the rest of the day wondering if we would ever be hungry again.

Wurihan poised to dig in

Dessert - a mountain of red and green
sweet beans with tapioca and shaved ice.
Rest assured that we made it disappear.

We wandered around Nanluoguxiang, the area with many courtyard homes and small shops, and ended up both running into people we know. I was amazed that, in a city so huge as Beijing, she and I could each bump into local friends--it's a small world after all. That night, she and I met up with Tina, the previous ABC intern, who will be leaving Beijing this weekend. Hanging out with both of them and remembering that I myself only have a week and a half left makes me realize that going home, something I am eagerly awaiting, will still be bittersweet.

In The News:
Hackers Linked To China’s Army Seen From EU To D.C.
"Greyjing"? Air pollution fouls Beijing's name
Asahi Shimbun correspondent beaten by Chinese police

Fever and Flood

     I wish I could claim that my three week absence from blogging was entirely due to being caught up in an amazing adventure, too immersed in the real world to stop for the virtual one. As it were, though, of the last twenty-one days, ten of them I spent being horrendously, dreadfully ill, in pajamas for days on end trying to remember what health felt like. After developing enormous lymph nodes, a very high fever and body aches, I went to an international clinic, where the doctor diagnosed me with a cold. After a week of bedrest and constant hydration, I wasn't anywhere close to being better, and so went back to the clinic, only to discover that I actually had strep throat. While I enjoyed a movie and TV marathon, being sick away from home, especially in a foreign country, was a really long, miserable, and lonely experience which I do not recommend and do not want to repeat. It was also especially disappointing to spend days on end feeling that the world was going by without me--I missed out on going to work and gallivanting in Beijing with my roommates Sha, Ricky, and Calvin (who have all since left).

With Sha, his dad, and Ricky

Walking around the Olympic facilities at night

Water Cube

With members of the Wellesley Club of Beijing

     I'm back on my feet now, though, and have been doing a host of fun things like touring the US Embassy with the Wellesley Club of Beijing, going to see Brave, eating out-of-this-world ramen, attending a solo swing dance class with Clare, gorging myself on Russian food with Wurihan, and of course staying busy keeping up with the news.

  This last weekend's news was fairly monumental, though as everything unfolded I had no idea of the scale. I had planned to spend last Saturday finally having a "treat yourself" day, complete with souvenir-shopping, delicious food, a much-needed massage and pedicure. Thus, that morning I was very disheartened to look out the window and see--nothing. A thick haze had engulfed the city, making it impossible to see past one block. I checked the air quality index--in the 370's ("Hazardous", according to the monitor)."Not in my lungs," I thought, and with that my self-indulgent day out on the town turned into a much less thrilling day cooped up in the apartment. I was glad to when rain started falling that afternoon, hopeful that it would clear up the air.

Remember this photo from last post?

Same view, this time with heavy pollution

      Little did I know that as I sulked at home, Beijing was facing its heaviest rains since 1951. While my neighborhood was relatively fine, some areas of the city were desecrated by the flooding. There have been a stream of pictures and videos of collapsed roads, cars barely visible above the waters, houses turned to rubble. The aftermath of the rains has caused an uproar online; microbloggers are bemoaning the antiquated city sewer systems, which are to blame for much of the flooding, and also expressing doubts that the government is being honest about the death toll (officially reported to be 37 people dead). Many are angry that a government which has spent billions on glamorous projects like the Olympic facilities would neglect something so fundamental as infrastructure. 

     ABC visited one of the villages that was hit the hardest, and I wrote an article about the scene: In Beijing, Doubt Grows as Thousands Struggle to Rebuild After Floods. Wading through piles of muck, we spoke with locals who saw their homes and livelihoods swept away before their eyes. Looking at the destruction, I had no idea how one could even imagine the rebuilding process--there seemed to be neither beginning nor end to the mess. When asked if the government was doing enough to help them, all of the residents we spoke with immediately said no. They'll be sleeping on cots in tents in a schoolyard until they have a place to call home again, and it's really impossible to know when that will be.

In The News:

North Korean Mystery Woman Is Leader Kim Jong Un’s Wife

Waters of Beijing, Friendship, Death, and Potatoes

     This weekend was my first real weekend in Beijing, and I was dreading it. I knew I shouldn't curl up in my room hiding from the world all weekend, but it was so tempting, given this city's overwhelming size and population. There are so many places to explore here--Beijing seems to never end--but the planning and energy required to go anywhere new, especially as a solo traveler, almost made kicking back in my "studio" with good music and Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air the obvious choice. Ultimately, though, my boss' suggestion to explore Beijing's hutong, as well as my room's lack of air conditioning, provided the necessary impetus to get out of my bubble and face the crowds.

Beijing's drum tower

      Hutong are the narrow alleyways formed by the walls of traditional courtyard homes, and are especially associated with Beijing. As hutong are regularly demolished to make way for new construction projects,  historical movements have made a push to preserve areas of Beijing that still have these courtyard homes. Karson, the ABC producer, recommended that I check out the hutong around the Beijing Drum and Bell Towers, and so come Saturday that is what I did--or tried to do, at least. I invited Kazumi to join me, and knowing only the subway station of where we were heading, we set off in search of a delicious lunch place and the towers. After spotting the towers from afar, we decided to take a pit stop in a Vietnamese-French fusion restaurant before wandering around the area. It's good we did--as soon as we ordered it started pouring rain, complete with thunder and lightening. After a few hours, the rain had diminished to a slow trickle, and so we ventured out to the towers through the alleyways. By the time the rain had stopped the towers were closed, but not being able to enter didn't diminish the overall effect--especially since lightening was still streaking across the sky in the distance. (Unfortunately, I don't have a tower-with-lightening picture--you'll just have to take my word for it).

The first sky I was able to see since arriving in Beijing

     To interject: this weekend brought two seemingly small developments that that were major game-changers for my quality of life, and one was the rain. I had woken up a few days earlier barely unable to speak because of the poor air quality. My nose was clogged, my throat was clogged, my brain was clogged...later in the day I regained my voice, but my hacking cough (and the symptoms that go with it) don't seem to be going anywhere. In That week, the air quality index (AQI) in Beijing was in the upper 200's, according to US Embassy measurements, which are posted hourly via Twitter. To put this in perspective, the US Environmental Protection Agency considers an AQI over 100 unhealthy. Most cities in the US don't exceed double digits on this scale, which takes into account the number of pollutant particulates in the air. Scarily, the upper 200's is nothing unusual for Beijing--apparently a few weeks ago the AQI was over 500 (exceeding the limit of the US scale!) Right now in China's Hubei province, citizens of seven cities have been instructed to stay inside because a thick yellowish haze of pollution has engulfed the area--the AQI there was a whopping 589 yesterday. But back to the rain--it cleared everything up, and the AQI here was in the single and double digits for a few days! In other words, I have been able to see the sky, buildings in the distance, the sun, etc. for the first time since being here, and the weather has been glorious. In Beijing, one cannot take these things for granted.

Holding on for dear life in the motorized rickshaw

     Kazumi and I started back after taking requisite pictures of the area, but soon found that we had no idea how to get back to the station, and that the people we asked weren't so sure, either. After several attempts to get directions, a rickshaw driver assured us that the station was a far walk and offered his services. We were wary at first--after all, we had walked from the station earlier that day--but seeing as we had no idea where to go (and frankly, I was intrigued by the idea of riding in a rickshaw) we accepted his offer. This turned out to be a fantastic choice, not only because we had been walking in the wrong direction, but also because the experience of being ferried by a driver on a motorized bike weaving through (and often narrowly missing) traffic was exhilarating. Motorized rickshaw is my definitely new favorite mode of transportation.

     After hutong-ing, I rushed off to Beijing Concert Hall to meet my dear friend Grant. Grant and I go back to the days of high school All-State Orchestra, and coincidence of coincidences, his college orchestra toured China this summer. I showed up an hour in advance of the performance, and had the following exchange with the venue's [Chinese] employee:

Me: "Hi, I'm with the orchestra! Where should I go?"

*pause*

Employee: "What is an orchestra?"

I was amused that Grant seemed to know I was taking his picture from afar.

Once we got that subtlety cleared up, I had no issue finding Grant and picking up my ticket. The performance was overwhelmingly fantastic--I had no idea his orchestra was so talented!--and equally enjoyed the Chinese speeches Grant and his conductor gave introducing the group and the pieces they played. At the first Chinese greeting, the audience burst into a huge cheer, and enthusiastically applauded each piece on the program, which included a range of works, from Shostakovich Symphony 5 to a work by a Chinese composer. The orchestra finished off the night (after two calls for an encore!) with the audience-interactive Mambo from Bernstein's West Side Story. It was a magnificent concert, and so lovely to see Grant.

At the lake at Beijing University.
Not pictured: the stone boat we're standing on.

     That was only the beginning of seeing dear friends from the past! I found out that weekend that my friend John was passing through Beijing on his way to a language program in Harbin, China, and so we met up for lunch. He only realized a few days ago that I was in China, and so our meeting was quite auspicious. John and I have some uncanny overlaps--we both have intense interests in Japanese and Chinese, and play violin. In fact, we met in Tokyo in 2008 because we both were studying abroad there. So on Sunday, we got noodles, walked around the lake at Houhai, then went to Beijing University and walked around the lake there, caught up on each other's life, lamented the difficulties of learning and functioning in Chinese with a Japanese-language background, and so on. Talking about the rain, the lakes we were circumambulating, and expense of supporting one's "bottled water habit" in Beijing (where tap water is potentially toxic) we joked that the theme of our visit was "Waters of Beijing."

I met John at Yaoji Chaogan, which is an
extremely authentic Chinese restaurant
that rose to fame after US vice-president
 Joe Biden ate there. The meal he ordered
is apparently now known as the bai-deng.

John and I saw a line of fishermen with these
exceedingly long poles around the lake at Houhai.
Given the relatively small size of the lake,
we had no idea what creature they were
hoping to catch that would require such big poles.

    














     While I'm living with a host family right now, two other Beijing families have quickly become my support network. The families have sons Travis and Sha who are and were students at my old high school (Sha just graduated!) Even before I arrived, these families have been taking care of me--Sha's family is hosting me in their apartment later this summer, and Travis' dad picked me up from the airport when I first arrived and got me a working phone. If that wasn't enough, Travis' family took me out for Peking Duck, a local delicacy that roughly equates to a Chinese taco, and Sha's family treated me to Shanghainese food. They've been incredibly kind and helpful, and having friends in Beijing makes the entire experience so much less daunting. Even if I were their indentured servant, I don't think I could properly repay them--all I can hope is that I'll be in a position in the future to help them out!

With Travis and the Peking Duck chef, who is obviously thrilled to be in this picture

     I know you've been on the edge of your seat wondering what the other recent development that has turned the tides in my favor could be, and so I'll mollify the curiosity that has been plaguing you this entire post: the road by my host family's apartment is now paved! Never have I been more happy to see asphalt. Before being paved, the path was abominable--the best way I can describe it is to say that it seemed to actually be made of pollution. The path was not quite dirt, not quite gravel, uneven and strewn with garbage. Basically, it was a nightmare for walking, especially if you liked the shoes you were wearing...Although the new street already looks like it will soon be worse for the wear, not having to dodge potholes in addition to the constant flow of rogue motorists is a welcome treat.

     Last night was a night of bonding with my host Xu Yuan and Matt and Taylor, the two American guys living with me. I was reading in my room when I heard traditional Chinese music from the street. Xu Yuan then knocked on my door, asking if I wanted to go see something fun. Assuming it was a street festival, I jumped to my feet and searched for my camera as Xu Yuan told me to hurry up. When I told him what I was looking for, he said, "No! Don't bring it--this is a funeral!" I was a little bewildered--I tend to think of "something fun" and funerals as mutually exclusive--but followed him and the guys out the door, sans camera. We chased down the music (which featured cymbals and an instrument that I can only describe as Chinese bagpipes), only to see a crowd surrounding a man lighting a fire in the middle of the street. After parading down the street with hired musicians, the relatives burn paper representing anything the deceased may need--from paper houses to "hell money". The music ended abruptly, and the crowd soon dispersed as the fire died downed and backed-up drivers honked angrily. Xu Yuan told us that what we had witnessed was a traditional-style funeral rite that was now rare and in fact illegal.

     Later in the evening, the four of us were sitting around a table when somehow our discussion subject turned to ancestry. Xu Yuan asked us about our ethnicities, and apparently unsatisfied with the answer "American", was mystified that our ancestors would have moved from foreign countries to the US. Matt and Taylor have predominantly Irish heritage, and so we explained the history of the Irish potato famine to the intrigued Xu Yuan. One of the two guys made the comparison that potatoes were to Ireland what rice is to China--namely, a food staple. "So Irish people left to eat America's potatoes?" Xu Yuan asked us. "Kind of," we answered, "What would you do if there was sickness in Chinese rice?" Xu Yuan thought about it for a moment. "I'd probably go eat the American potato, too."

In The News:

US Embassy warns of "particularly poor" air quality in Wuhan
Nepal 'Himalayan Viagra' harvest droops to record low
China changes patent law in fight for cheaper drugs

The jazz club from last post--
Kazumi and I ended up going!

Houhai, where the jazz club was, is
known for its nightlife